Tower and Town, March 2017

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The Food Gallery

It wasn’t until we’d fed, in a tiny Parisian bistro many, many years ago, that we decided to offer Eggs Benedict - should we ever open a food establishment.

So, let me recap a bit. We’d been walking up, down and around Montmartre hill, and along the right bank of the Seine for what seemed liked hours, and decided we were very hungry. We planned to take a short-cut back to our hotel, in what we thought was the correct direction. Many tiny alleyways later we walked past a fantastic smelling little place – but weren’t quite sure if it was a food establishment, or someone’s great Sunday lunch.

Too hungry to resist, we popped inside. There was no English spoken at all (which shows you how long ago it was) and the menu was very hard to read, the place being so dimly lit. The patron finally came over and between our ‘franglais’ and his keenness to serve us, it became clear that he would prepare something for us – and to ‘leave it to him’. A carafe of house red arrived.

What came, in quick time, was this most bizarre looking plate. ‘Des œufs’ was uttered. But the taste! O-M-G ... I’d never tasted anything so fabulous in my life! Two halves of a muffin at the base, gently wilted spinach on top, thick slices of honey roasted ham on top of that, 2 soft-poached eggs on top of that - and a thick hollandaise sauce poured over everything. Mmmmm!!!! I was so impressed that I stuck my head in the doorway to the kitchen to say ‘thank you’ before we left. Well, I say ‘kitchen’ – it was the most rudimentary area where cooking took place. No Health and Hygiene Executive in those days! The patron took me by the hand and introduced me to his mum, who cooked another serving, just for me – showing me ‘exactly’ (and in very great detail) what to do – and why (via hand signals).

And so started my epicurean journey. We’ve tried to find this place on many further visits to Paris, without luck.

Put the peeled potatoes into a pan of boiling water, to cook them as normal, and do likewise with the green beans. At the same time flatten the chicken breasts - it's easiest to do this between two sheets of cling film - beat the chicken with your rolling pin, or anything heavy.

Make sure that the breasts are not too flat, maybe 1½-2cm deep. More important is that they are of an even width, so that they cook evenly. Dip them into the seasoned flour - this gives them a nice coating, which crisps up when fried.

Put the butter and olive oil in a frying pan and warm through until it is just melted. Note: using lots of butter and a little olive oil does no calorie harm (if used infrequently) and helps make a great sauce. (Butter will burn on its own, so adding olive oil not only adds flavour, but it means you can have a hotter pan.)

Add and fry the onions until just soft. There is no need to brown them. Push the onions to the side of the pan and place the chicken breasts in the middle of the pan, on a higher heat.

Don't keep turning the breasts! Turn them once, having checked that the first side is nicely brown and crispy. Flip it over when it is and do the same to the other breast. When both breasts are cooked and crispy, take them out and place them on some kitchen paper on a plate and keep them in a warm place.

Pour one wine glass of either dry sherry/cider or white wine into the hot butter and oil and keep on the heat, stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced by about half. Pour in enough double cream to make a sauce - about 150ml – I’m not sure, as I do it by eye. Stir it all around and check for seasoning - you may need to add salt and pepper to your taste.

Place the mashed potato on the plate. Put the chicken on top of the mash. Place the beans on the side of the mash. Pour the sauce over the chicken, and serve.

Bob Holman