Tower and Town, February 2020

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What Tara Did Next - Cycle To Kathmandu

This was an amazing achievement, described by Tara herself in an inspirational, illustrated talk at St John’s last November. Tara Parks was born in Marlborough and after university, failing to get into the Army with a wrecked but reconstructed knee, was looking for a way of proving herself. Genes and role models help: her father, Nick, a mountain and ski guide, ran Outdoor Activities at the College a while back. Funds? The evening was set up by the Kempson Rosedale Enterprise Trust which had provided her with some financial support and was celebrating its 30th year of enabling young people from St John’s and Marlborough College to ‘get on their bikes’, so to speak.

Tara’s bicycle, ‘Bobby Dawes’, lay below the stage and she was joined in her presentation later by her brother, Archie, who had accompanied her on the last 100 days of her seven month trip. Tara made it clear that the journey was “entirely for herself”’ and not, for example, for any sort of scientific research. She showed images of vast, rough landscapes, which appeared more mountainous and tough as the journey went on, but her lively and honest commentary was more about her personal journey than a description of the route. She warmed up, to test the kit – bike, tent and herself - by cycling from Land’s End to John O’Groats. That took 21 days. The next journey took 243 days, through 21 countries. But with only four punctures.

Tara admitted to fear and unease as she set out: people might steal, dogs might attack… But an accident she suffered in Bosnia was a turning point. She learned “to put herself into the hands of strangers,” she said, and she began “to see the world with open eyes” and an “open heart”. She learned to assume that people, often very poor, were friendly and kind, to “say yes’” to opportunities and “to be relaxed.”

Refused a visa for Turkmenistan, Tara flew beyond and continued on her bike in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Next up was Xinkiang where the Chinese authorities’ insistence that they travel by taxi seemed designed to prevent foreigners having any contact with the local Uighur people. The approach to India via the Tibetan plateau looked (from her photographs) and sounded (from her commentary) extraordinarily demanding, as day after day she scaled passes of over 4000 m. Tempted by exhaustion to give up and go home she was sustained by the company of brother Archie, who provided extra energy and humour, and leaped into creating song and dance duets with her. Her mantra at this point became: “What I achieved yesterday, I can achieve today.”

India by contrast was hot and smoggy, and as they pushed on to Kathmandu at 100 km a day doubts emerged about what the end of the trip would feel like. Arriving at their chosen finishing point in Kathmandu, with no cheering crowds to greet them, a monkey stole the celebratory banana Tara was about to eat. But at breakfast next day the unexpected appearance of her father brought a much happier conclusion.

Tara’s final point from this exhilarating and inspiring presentation was not so much the physical achievement – that was obvious to us all in the audience - but that “You don’t have to be a professional explorer to rebuild your confidence.”

To read Tara’s fascinating online blog, just google Tara Parks – Pedal to Nepal.

John Osborne