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Tower and Town, July 2024

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A Note From Paris

In April, I took myself off to the French capital and spent a week living out my Parisian fantasy, having a truly marvellous time. Although I had been before, and know it is a city that warrants a lifetime of repeat visits, there were certain places, things that I wanted to see and do tout seul. My first balmy afternoon was spent at the Musée de Montmartre. I was keen to do less of the main tourist attractions, and instead focus on some of the museums and galleries that, although popular, were just off the tourist trail.

The Musée de Montmartre is a stone's throw from the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, which sits in Paris' iconic 18th arrondissement/district, famous for its rich history of bohemian artists, literary gatherings, the Moulin Rouge and of course, Le Chat Noir. The museum and its serene gardens were the home, studios and meeting place of many artists such as Auguste Renoir, Émile Bernard, Raoul Dufy, Charles Camoin, Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo. The Renoir Gardens are named in memory of the Impressionist painter who lived on-site between 1875 and 1877, where he painted several masterpieces including the famous Bal du Moulin de la Galette ('The Moulin de la Galette Ball') and La Balancoire ('The Swing'.)

The museum has permanent collections of Impressionists' work, including visual depictions of the history of Montmartre, including how it became Paris' artistic district, full of jostling cafés and cabarets. One highlight of the museum is Suzanne Valadon's recreated Atelier-Apartment, a studio space she shared with Maurice Utrillo and André Utter in 1912. The room is airy and light, with high ceilings, dried up oil paints and wooden easels. The gardens and café are like something out of a French literary novel. They were luscious, warm, full of blossom, pastel colours and secret paths. The plat du jour was delicious too (quiche Lorraine) and overall, this little museum is a feast for the eyes and soul. If you love the classic Belle Époque posters and the creaking of wooden floorboards, steeped in French artistic history, then this really should be top of your list for your next weekend city break.


Musée de Montmartre, 12, rue Cortot - 75018 Paris
https://museedemontmartre.fr/en/

Gabriella Venus

      

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